Oratoire St-Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias 2020

Haut Coustias is a selection from the Estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding white vines, which mostly face east in the chalkiest, coolest part of Oratoire’s La Montagne terroirs (the name given to the steepest area of Cairanne). The average age of the vines is 75 years, and these venerable plants produce a tiny 20 hl/ha on average. Each variety was harvested and vinified separately in concrete eggs before blending.

This is layered, complex and confidently full-bodied in the best spirit of this benchmark wine. Opening with a hint of reduction, the palate is long and tongue-coating, and embedded with deep citrus, aniseed and sweet herbal flavors. The finish is powerful and long, underpinned by a nip of food-friendly phenolics. There is so much going on; you want to pour it into a decanter and see it evolve as you contemplate the bottle.